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Put the Drop on a Few Bass

Put The Drop On A Few Bass

When you think of finesse fishing and Big Bite Baits you may have thoughts of Big Bite Pro Jeff Kriet standing in the front of his Triton fishing a Flying Squirrel rigged on a shaky head jig. Well I am going to change your thought just a little and we are going to talk about another finesse technique that is called drop shot fishing.

Drop shot fishing first showed up over in Japan to deal with all the high pressure conditions when trying to get bass to bite.  Soon the drop shot tactic made its ways across the big pond and has fast found a place in American bass fishing circles.  Americans not only use drop shot to catch bass in high pressure conditions, but we also use it to take bass in other types of water situations. 

Drop shot fishing excels when you have bass sitting in a place where you are either faced with holding your presentation in front of them to trigger a bite or where it is hard to get your presentation to them. Two of the top examples that I am going to use for this article is when bass are located on deepwater rock areas or are sitting in deepwater brush conditions.

First let’s lay the ground work of the equipment that is needed to work the drop shot tactic. I generally use a 7ft to 7 1/2ft light action spinning rod, teamed this with a matching spinning reel. When it comes to line there are a few different thoughts, some fishermen go on the small side of the spectrum and fish with 4 lb test line; while others go towards larger side of the line spectrum and opt to use 8lb test line. For myself I use 6lb Sunline Sniper Fluorocarbon line the majority of the time.

I team this with a #1 Gamakatsu Drop Shot Hook for open hook presentations and 1/0 Gamakatsu offset worm hook for when I want to rig my presentation weedless. When it comes to weight I try to use the lightest weight I can to maintain feel with the bottom.

To set up the drop shot rig tie your hook on the line, hook point up about 18” from the end of the line then tie a knot at the end of my line to act as a stop. This will keep your sinker from getting pulled off your line if you get your sinker stuck in the rocks. 

The first situation we are going to target are summertime bass that are located on deepwater rock areas. The rocks we are going to be targeting sit in 12ft to 18ft of water. When the bass are active and feeding they are sitting on top of the hump in 12ft next to a big boulder that is off to one side of the hump. This gives the big bass an ambush point to sit by when active and even when they are not, they will use this boulder.

I know this boulder well for one I can see it on my Humminbird Side Imaging and I have also learned that when I bang a crankbait off of it I would get a big bite. So this is the logical area that I want to target when placing my drop shot in the area.

Once I have worked the target area on top of the rocks and either taken the big fish I was looking for or found the school of bass was not on top and feeding, it is time to back off and let my electronics help me find the bass I am looking for. Upon seeing bass off to the side of the hump I mark the area with a waypoint then ease to the area to put my drop shot presentation in front of the bass.

The second situation we are going to target will be timelier to the season, it is now early winter time fishing on a major reservoir and we have bass that are using deepwater brush as home at this time of the year. Your electronics will be your best friend in helping you locate these brush piles and bass. When the bass are actively feeding they will be located at the tops of the brush piles, but when they are inactive they will be sitting down in the brush.  

A drop shot presentation will allow you to control the depth that your bait is holding at as you will be able to see both the bass and your bait on your electronics. This will allow you to keep your bait in the strike zone for the majority of your presentation.

What baits you pick and how you present them to the bass will either result in bass over the side or not. I have picked out my 3 top Big Bite Baits and how I present them with a drop shot.

The first two baits are a 4” and 6” Big Bite Finesse Worm. If the bass are active and feeding I will opt to use the 6” Finesse worm.  I will either rig this by nose hooking the worm or wacky rigging.  If I am working around weeds or in brush and have a chance of getting hooked I will opt to rig my worm Texas rigged.

 

If the bass are inactive or I need to match the size of bait that the bass are feeding on I will downsize and use a 4” Finesse Worm.  I will use the same rigging options. 

When I need to bulk up, or want a bigger profile bait for my offering I will use a 4” or 5” Trick Stick. When it comes to the riggings I will cover my bases and use all the different options and let the bass tell me how they want the bait presented.

If the bass are feeding on minnows I will give them that same minnow shape and use the Big Bite Jerk Minnow as my bait offering. I generally keep two sizes in my tackle box 4” and 5”and pick the appropriate size to match the conditions I am fishing. 

When fishing in open water conditions I will nose hook the bait. If I am fishing in cover I will Texas rig my presentation.

So when conditions call for you to keep your bait in the strike zone longer to trigger bites make sure you turn towards the drop shot. With a handful of Big Bite Baits you can put your bait right in the strike zone and keep it there until you get a reaction. If you are not using a drop shot in your bag of tricks you will soon see what you are missing and how a drop shot will pay big dividends in your livewell.

Scott Petersen

 

 


   




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